Lighting here is superb John. So bounce flash with second curtain?
Thanks. My process for a shot like this is:
1 - M mode
2 - Set exposure for the background. This is the typical balance between ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, but I'm trying to keep ISO down within the comfort range of the camera. I also let the shutter speed go slower than I normally do (this shot is 127mm EQ at 1/50s), knowing that the flash will fill and freeze motion or camera movement to a degree. Shutter also has to be lower than flash sync, of course.
3 - Set flash on TTL so it knows to only provide enough power for a well-exposed scene
4 - Bounce flash off right wall.
5 - Experiment with bounce angles, hoping the cat doesn't wake up.
Note that I didn't use second curtain. That's more for moving subjects IIRC.
The key here is step 2, known as Dragging the Shutter when the shutter speed dips way below the 1/focal length rule of thumb. Most cameras in Auto mode will rely too much on the flash for subject lighting, which often throws the background into a tunnel-like darkness.
Nocturnal by
john m flores, on Flickr
Sometimes it works, often it doesn't.
But when done well, you can't tell that a flash was used and you don't have to use insane ISOs or ultra-fast glass.
_JMF0944.jpg by
john m flores, on Flickr
75mm EQ, ISO400, F5.6, 1/40s
It also lets you do things that high ISOs or fast glass can't do, like get inside and outside a window properly exposed.
_JMF0740.jpg by
john m flores, on Flickr
75mm EQ, ISO100, F7.1, 1/160s
Here, the use of flash allowed me to use an aperture with enough DOF to get the cat in focus without completely blurring the bird feeder
OK, enough about cats. I'm pretty sure that I can live with the sensor of the V3 also, but I'm also content with the V1 and will likely pick up a used V3 in a couple of years. Better sensor performance might have changed that timeline. Until then, I'm likely to invest in the 70-300 zoom first. But first, I've got a sink that needs fixing...