Nikon Nikon 1 V3

Looking at that lot, its seems the V1 was actually the best overall (relatively speaking). I'm not sure why they keep comparing the Nikon 1 stuff with MFT, though, its a bit like apples and oranges, don't you think? I would expect MFT cameras to "beat" the 1" variety every time... oh well...

I don't have a problem with the new 18MP sensor being behind m4/3, that's to be expected due to size difference. But I have a problem with it being behind its 2 generations old predecessor, the 10MP sensor in the V1. The way I see it, Nikon had more than enough time to improve image quality at least slightly, but it didn't do it. And that is a huge disappointment.
 
I don't have a problem with the new 18MP sensor being behind m4/3, that's to be expected due to size difference. But I have a problem with it being behind its 2 generations old predecessor, the 10MP sensor in the V1. The way I see it, Nikon had more than enough time to improve image quality at least slightly, but it didn't do it. And that is a huge disappointment.

Same thing with Pentax in going from the K-5 to K-3. In some respects, the K-5 sensor is marginally better than the K-3 sensor, but the K-3 does have a 50% boost in megapickles, which helps with cropping and such. I'm ok with it, as the K-5 was already at a high level.
 
I don't have a problem with the new 18MP sensor being behind m4/3, that's to be expected due to size difference. But I have a problem with it being behind its 2 generations old predecessor, the 10MP sensor in the V1. The way I see it, Nikon had more than enough time to improve image quality at least slightly, but it didn't do it. And that is a huge disappointment.

Hard to disagree with that. Maybe the silver lining is that we will be a bit happier shooting our V1s and will not find it necessary to shell out over a grand for the V3.
 
Hard to disagree with that. Maybe the silver lining is that we will be a bit happier shooting our V1s and will not find it necessary to shell out over a grand for the V3.

Well, since I find the V1 already limiting at High ISO, I'm not happy at all. I will have to add another system with better noise performance, which is what I wanted to avoid.
 
Well, since I find the V1 already limiting at High ISO, I'm not happy at all. I will have to add another system with better noise performance, which is what I wanted to avoid.

Yeah, I'm with you there. It would be interesting if the V3 could replace my other system(s). But it looks like Nikon 1 will remain a role player for me. Maybe that's OK though, right tool for the job and all.
 
Well, since I find the V1 already limiting at High ISO, I'm not happy at all. I will have to add another system with better noise performance, which is what I wanted to avoid.

Yeah, I'm with you there. It would be interesting if the V3 could replace my other system(s). But it looks like Nikon 1 will remain a role player for me. Maybe that's OK though, right tool for the job and all.

Yeah, the Nikon 1 system has never been a low light demon, and I too hoped for better performance in that regard. I'm not overly disappointed since I've got other cameras for low light. I've also used a flash with my V1 with some success.
 
I'm not overly disappointed since I've got other cameras for low light.

Likewise. I learned quickly that the light has to be at least reasonable to get a good shot. I don't like what the V1/J1 produce at ISO3200 so I dont use that at all. And I've learned that without a prime lens on, I wont shoot if its not daylight. My K-5 and X100 are fine for low light (as are a couple of my "lesser" compacts)
 
Likewise. I learned quickly that the light has to be at least reasonable to get a good shot. I don't like what the V1/J1 produce at ISO3200 so I dont use that at all. And I've learned that without a prime lens on, I wont shoot if its not daylight. My K-5 and X100 are fine for low light (as are a couple of my "lesser" compacts)
Well, since it's my only system at the moment, I had to get creative to overcome the limitation. I think that I've found a good balance in NR, so that I can shoot ISO3200 without being disgusted by the results. But I would like a stop or two more.
 
Well, since it's my only system at the moment, I had to get creative to overcome the limitation. I think that I've found a good balance in NR, so that I can shoot ISO3200 without being disgusted by the results. But I would like a stop or two more.

I just read you review on the 18.5mm. Nice writeup and photos.

I empathize with your desire for better low light performance, but if the V1 is your only cam, there are other ways to get results in low light. For candids and cats in low light, maybe a flash would help, dragging the shutter to find a desirable balance between ambient light and flash while keeping the ISO low. The only possibility for night streetscapes is a tripod.
 
I just read you review on the 18.5mm. Nice writeup and photos.
Thanks John.

I empathize with your desire for better low light performance, but if the V1 is your only cam, there are other ways to get results in low light. For candids and cats in low light, maybe a flash would help, dragging the shutter to find a desirable balance between ambient light and flash while keeping the ISO low. The only possibility for night streetscapes is a tripod.
Flash is not an option. I don't like the flash look at all. I'm an ambient light shooter.

I think I've found the solution to my low light problems. E-M10 + Pana 25/1.4. That should give me almost 2 additional stops compared to my current V1 + 18.5mm combo. Maybe even more for static subjects, where the IBIS can do its work. N1 has no stabilized primes...
 
Thanks John.


Flash is not an option. I don't like the flash look at all. I'm an ambient light shooter.

I think I've found the solution to my low light problems. E-M10 + Pana 25/1.4. That should give me almost 2 additional stops compared to my current V1 + 18.5mm combo. Maybe even more for static subjects, where the IBIS can do its work. N1 has no stabilized primes...

I'm not much of a strobist either, preferring the look of ambient light. But I do know that you can create a flash photo that looks like ambient lighting. The key is soft light (bouncing is one way) plus dragging the shutter.

4373410981_b6258a5753_z.jpg

Relaxed. by john m flores, on Flickr

On the other hand, that Oly kit would be nice.
 
Thanks John.


Flash is not an option. I don't like the flash look at all. I'm an ambient light shooter.

I think I've found the solution to my low light problems. E-M10 + Pana 25/1.4. That should give me almost 2 additional stops compared to my current V1 + 18.5mm combo. Maybe even more for static subjects, where the IBIS can do its work. N1 has no stabilized primes...

I had not even considered the new olympus . So I'm going to have a look this morning. I've had an EM5 but it's the wifi ability that is a draw for me. Now if the new V3 had built in evf or I could buy body and evf only . I would perhaps get one. I could live with the sensor.
 
Lighting here is superb John. So bounce flash with second curtain?

Thanks. My process for a shot like this is:

1 - M mode
2 - Set exposure for the background. This is the typical balance between ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, but I'm trying to keep ISO down within the comfort range of the camera. I also let the shutter speed go slower than I normally do (this shot is 127mm EQ at 1/50s), knowing that the flash will fill and freeze motion or camera movement to a degree. Shutter also has to be lower than flash sync, of course.
3 - Set flash on TTL so it knows to only provide enough power for a well-exposed scene
4 - Bounce flash off right wall.
5 - Experiment with bounce angles, hoping the cat doesn't wake up.

Note that I didn't use second curtain. That's more for moving subjects IIRC.

The key here is step 2, known as Dragging the Shutter when the shutter speed dips way below the 1/focal length rule of thumb. Most cameras in Auto mode will rely too much on the flash for subject lighting, which often throws the background into a tunnel-like darkness.

4370909165_ede0565988_z.jpg

Nocturnal by john m flores, on Flickr

Sometimes it works, often it doesn't.

But when done well, you can't tell that a flash was used and you don't have to use insane ISOs or ultra-fast glass.

13327916515_d23328be53_z.jpg

_JMF0944.jpg by john m flores, on Flickr
75mm EQ, ISO400, F5.6, 1/40s

It also lets you do things that high ISOs or fast glass can't do, like get inside and outside a window properly exposed.

13328387594_be7c2cf654_z.jpg

_JMF0740.jpg by john m flores, on Flickr

75mm EQ, ISO100, F7.1, 1/160s

Here, the use of flash allowed me to use an aperture with enough DOF to get the cat in focus without completely blurring the bird feeder


OK, enough about cats. I'm pretty sure that I can live with the sensor of the V3 also, but I'm also content with the V1 and will likely pick up a used V3 in a couple of years. Better sensor performance might have changed that timeline. Until then, I'm likely to invest in the 70-300 zoom first. But first, I've got a sink that needs fixing...
 
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