Leica Lomography brings back the Jupiter-3

I'm so jealous :)

When you have a chance, is there real world focus shift as you stop down? The fence post is perfect, but how is calibration at 7 meters +? How is infinity performance at the various apertures? My 1937 CZJ is fantastic at infinity. My Nikkor is best at 2 meters. While I can see they are related, they are easy to tell apart, usually. :)
 
You don't have to be jealous... You can just buy one!

I will be some extensive tests, and will be doing a write-up. I will also put the copper tape on the RF cam, I did the same with the Cosina Voigtlander lenses to optimize on the M Monochrom.

Brian
 
I took the Jupiter-3+ out on the M9, hazy Sun- most of the neighborhood is still snow covered. Exposure set to +2/3ev for compensation.

This should be viewed as a stress test for the lens, and getting first impressions of the behavior.

Quick impressions: this lens has well controlled focus shift, is more even than the Nikkors. Focus shift is caused by spherical aberration. The focal length at the edge of the lens is different from the focal length of the center. The gradient of change in focal length as you move from the edge of the lens to the center controls the distribution of intensity across the out-of-focus areas, the density of the circles-of-confusion.

At F1.5,

24557369632_365eae6937_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

At F4.

24048329383_4b4d08f19a_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, F4
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Full resolution Jpegs are uploaded to Flickr.

Flare test, F1.5. Sun directly behind the leaf.

24648938316_1f1dd7908e_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Sun in upper left corner.

24557368472_81beae7cf6_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

I kept a multi-coated Schneider UV filter on the lens for all of these tests.

The coatings are improved over all of the Jupiter-3 and vintage coated Sonnars.
 
Infinity Test, wide-open.

24046967414_655ce57a75_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Full-res uploaded, you can see the wheels of the Jet.

Another flare test, Sun in upper corner, focus on fallen limb at bottom, wide-open.

24379612580_9d27566388_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Flare test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

The above test usually produces reflections in vintage Sonnar formula lenses. The coatings on this new Jupiter-3+ are very effective. The UV filter used is a high-quality multi-coated Schneider, from Popflash for $5 each. I bought 10 of them.

Mid-range, wide-open, focus on top of fence post.

24379616850_dd8214057b_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Focus on top of post, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Another fence post, wide-open, where the post meets the top slat.

24307459379_da05b96632_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Focus with this lens is accurate across the entire focal range on my M9. I am using a 1.25x magnifier for focus.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My front Yard, the squirrels love to run across this fallen tree.

Wide-Open,

24675165695_6ce4035bd2_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

At F4.

24648944186_44e244890d_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, F4
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

This J-3+ does not have the huge jump in contrast going from F1.5 to F4. I'm guessing the improved lens coatings help contrast used wide-open, and spherical aberration is more carefully controlled. I made a Sonnar/J-3 Hybrid- went through optics from 5 lenses to get Bokeh something like this lens exhibits.
 
More shots with the new Jupiter-3+,

Not much color in Winter, and the one bush with Red berries was buried in a 3ft snow bank. So no RED Dots today.

Wide-Open F1.5,

24581607121_ed062e31c8_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Focus on the ice-cycle, wide-open.

24379615160_54f8ccf9c7_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Wide-Open, Focus on the Blade of Grass in the lower 1/3rd of the image, focus then framed, the blade of grass is still in focus. Some Sonnars have very high field curvature. This one seems to have better flatness of field. I'll shoot a Brick Wall next time I go to Gunston Hall.

24675145845_291c05e265_b.jpg
Jupiter-3+ Test, Edge Test, Wide-Open
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

Okay. I'm impressed... This is the first Jupiter-3 that I've ever used that was this accurate across the entire distance scale that I did not have to change the spacing between front/rear groups and then shim.

Well Done, Congratulations.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
More pictures in this album:

Jupiter3Plus

All full-res, direct exports using LR6.

I'll get this lens on a proper outing. If they had released this lens in the Spring, I'd have Cherry Blossom pictures from the walk in the neighborhood. Come on Spring...
 
Looking at the 100% crops of the M9 images...

Think I'll put a layer of Copper tape on the Cam to optimize for an Orange filter on the M Monochrom. If it's this good across the full visible spectrum, it will be even better limited to longer wavelengths. Just look at the 1934 5cm F2 shot with the Orange filter. That lens is modified to focus to 0.75m.
 
Wow, spectacular results. Mine shipped today (FedEX ground form NY, should take forever to get to California). I think I'll leave it as an M9 (M-E) lens.

When you play with my two Sonnars, if they are off, can you optimize them for the Monochrom with orange filter? I think I'll be using the Zeiss on the M Monochrom and the Jupiters on the M-E.
 
I should also add- It was cold outside using this lens. Lots of snow. The focus remained buttery-smooth. This lens has a solid feel to it, more like a Nikkor and better than the Canon 50/1.5. The latter gets some play in the focus, the mechanism is a bit complex. The Nikkors have aged better than the Canon. With the vintage Jupiters- the choice of material is not as good, and the later ones opened up the tolerances. For example, the later ZOMZ and Valdai J-3 rely on three set screws to hold the helical firmly in place. I've seen J-3's with the taps for the set screws drilled too deep, and the set screws cause the focus to bind. When that happens, no choice but to back them off- meaning some play in the action. The vintage KMZ focus mounts- the helical screws firmly into the mount and one set screw is used to keep it there. The mount is the precise depth to allow the lens to focus to infinity with the helical screwed firmly in place. Most Valdai and ZOMZ lenses, the helical can be screwed in to drive the RF past infinity, hence the need for the set screws to keep it in the proper position.

I'm not taking mine apart- but it has a solid feel to it, no play. I'd like to have 20 of these mounts and put my other Sonnars and J-3's into them...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow, spectacular results. Mine shipped today (FedEX ground form NY, should take forever to get to California). I think I'll leave it as an M9 (M-E) lens.

When you play with my two Sonnars, if they are off, can you optimize them for the Monochrom with orange filter? I think I'll be using the Zeiss on the M Monochrom and the Jupiters on the M-E.

I have your Sonnar 5cm f1.5 setup for my M Monochrom, any finer tuning- I need the camera that it will be used on. This is getting finer than the spec, would be having the lens and camera "zeroed", as Bill Pierce refers to. The 5cm f2 Sonnar- that will most likely need to be re-shimmed after getting a new rear group.

Once I try the Copper tape on the J-3+, as was necessary on my 50/1.1 and 35/1.2 Noktons to "zero" on the M monochrom, I can send you a strip of it for the J-3+...
 
I have your Sonnar 5cm f1.5 setup for my M Monochrom, any finer tuning- I need the camera that it will be used on. This is getting finer than the spec, would be having the lens and camera "zeroed", as Bill Pierce refers to. The 5cm f2 Sonnar- that will most likely need to be re-shimmed after getting a new rear group.

Once I try the Copper tape on the J-3+, as was necessary on my 50/1.1 and 35/1.2 Noktons to "zero" on the M monochrom, I can send you a strip of it for the J-3+...
Thanks.
 
I have your Sonnar 5cm f1.5 setup for my M Monochrom, any finer tuning- I need the camera that it will be used on. This is getting finer than the spec, would be having the lens and camera "zeroed", as Bill Pierce refers to. The 5cm f2 Sonnar- that will most likely need to be re-shimmed after getting a new rear group.

Once I try the Copper tape on the J-3+, as was necessary on my 50/1.1 and 35/1.2 Noktons to "zero" on the M monochrom, I can send you a strip of it for the J-3+...

Your Monochrom is perfect match for my old one. If my new one is off, it isn't by much and I woud say it was the camera that needs adjustment. It's a brand new camera and I've had no issues with focus on it yet, so I'm sure it will be perfect.
 
Some links to articles that I've written on the 1930s Sonnars, and the C-Sonnar:

Unique Blend of Compactness, Super Speed and Perfect Imperfections: 1930s Sonnar Lenses on the Leica M9 and M Monochrom | THEME

Lesson in History: The Magic of the “Value for Money” Zeiss C-Sonnar 50mm F1.5 | THEME

I revived the write-up on the Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.5 recently, which includes a comparison with a Wartime Zeiss Sonnar.

Nikkor-SC 5cm F1.5, the lens that got the attention of the World

I will be doing a similar write-up for the Jupiter-3+ in the next few weeks. Weather has been "uncooperative" with getting outside. I have a LOT of fence post pictures on my computer. You have to hold this lens and use it on your camera, then use a vintage Jupiter-3 to feel and see the difference. This lens is like the Millenium Nikkor-S 50/1.4 (not a Sonnar design): They build them better than they used to.

With the C-Sonnar, the lens front-focuses on my M9, but is perfect on the M Monochrom with an Orange Filter. So- the comparison will be done on the latter, both with Orange filters. On the M9, the C-Sonnar is best at F2. The C-Sonnar was optimized for F1.5 on Film cameras, digital sensors are slightly different. This gives me fits, I always ask what camera a lens will be used on before setting the Shim. With this Jupiter-3+ available, I'm retiring from converting Sonnars to Leica mount.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm thinking that Lomo could take special requests for uncoated optics. Jupiter-3 mounts can be cans-of-worms to work on, same with the vintage Sonnars. There is always some risk, which is often mitigated through a lot of extra hours spent doing the conversion. You have to find a good J-3 and a Good Sonnar, and spend two days getting it right. I have $400 into parts on the 1936 5cm F1.5 Sonnar. It's kind of like restoring a '69 Mustang instead of buying a new one.

But if someone wants to buy a new Jupiter-3+ and have me replace the optics in it with uncoated classic glass- I'll do it...but I keep the left-over parts. Which will then be made into an S-Mount J-3+.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You could send me the new J-3+ when you get it.... I could see if the optics modules are interchangeable. J-3+ in an original J-3 mount, and uncoated Sonnar in a Brass mount...

This will invalidate the warranty...

24194713619_538f9b8d7f_b.jpg
RIMG0423
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

The warranty on the 80-year old Sonnar has expired, so I took it apart.

I bought a near-mint J-3 to get a focus mount for it.

24536332146_e672127b8b_b.jpg
sonnar4
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

1936 5cm F1.5 Sonnar, wide-open on the M9.

by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

I converted the left-over parts into a Jupiter-3 for the Contax.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the offer, but modern coatings on the J3+ and it being a brand-new, $650 lens are enough for me to keep it as-is. If one of these new ones shows up on the used market at a good price I may take you up on it though.
 
I took the Lomography-Zenit Jupiter-3+, Adjusted -Perfect- 1956 KMZ Jupiter-3, and the converted 1934 Carl Zeiss Jena 5cm F1.5 Sonnar to Gunston Hall today. Did some tripod mounted shots using all three lenses.

Wow. The new lens recreates the Vintage Sonnar look, with the build-quality of a 1950s Nikkor.

The new Jupiter-3+, wide-open.

24745600972_21b3921ee3_b.jpg
George_Mason_grandson_F15
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

The 1956 KMZ Jupiter-3. This lens looks like new-old-stock, I have it calibrated for the Leica.

24770103171_9428397f6a_b.jpg
George_Mason_Grandson_F15
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

And the 1934 CZJ 5cm F1.5 Sonnar, one of the very first with a filter ring. Nickel finish, now in a Black focus mount.

24235336574_32af657889_b.jpg
George_Mason_Grandson_F15
by fiftyonepointsix, on Flickr

All wide-open, Schneider multi-coated UV filters and vented hoods on each.
 
Back
Top