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When you post a new thread, add an extra couple of words like "Black and White- or where the picture was taken, that will help other people to guide you.
With your conversion to Monochrome: try some of the virtual color filters,
Try selecting "Orange" or "Red" filters to being out details of the sky.
I am also going to suggest this Free software for processing images, which includes "Silver Effects" for converting to monochrome.
Google Nik Collection
I use this software.
With your conversion to Monochrome: try some of the virtual color filters,
Try selecting "Orange" or "Red" filters to being out details of the sky.
I am also going to suggest this Free software for processing images, which includes "Silver Effects" for converting to monochrome.
Google Nik Collection
I use this software.
Fangyu, do you have the Leica Visoflex electronic viewfinder for the Leica T? It's my favorite way of shooting the T, and it's a superb viewfinder.
Tips on shooting the T ... where to start? How familiar are you with balancing the trade-offs of shutter-speed, ISO, and lens aperture - given the subject and light conditions you are in? The T - like all great cameras - helps you make those trade-offs in a way that's easy to work with and that quickly becomes intuitive.
That's how I approach the T: For this shot, what do I need for quantity of light, depth of field, fastness or slowness of action? Then, I start setting the T up for what I need for getting those ...
Many cameras offer some automation to "help" make the above decisions. In easy conditions, the camera's choices for you are often pretty good. I like Leica because they make it easy for me to take control when tough choices must be made, rather than try to hide those from me. That makes picture taking much more satisfying (and often more successful) for me.
Is this a good place to start, or are you already familiar with the above?
Tips on shooting the T ... where to start? How familiar are you with balancing the trade-offs of shutter-speed, ISO, and lens aperture - given the subject and light conditions you are in? The T - like all great cameras - helps you make those trade-offs in a way that's easy to work with and that quickly becomes intuitive.
That's how I approach the T: For this shot, what do I need for quantity of light, depth of field, fastness or slowness of action? Then, I start setting the T up for what I need for getting those ...
Many cameras offer some automation to "help" make the above decisions. In easy conditions, the camera's choices for you are often pretty good. I like Leica because they make it easy for me to take control when tough choices must be made, rather than try to hide those from me. That makes picture taking much more satisfying (and often more successful) for me.
Is this a good place to start, or are you already familiar with the above?
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OK, elsewhere you've said you're somewhat of a beginner. Great instincts for a beginner!
So, another tip after Brian's: For outside shots where you want to keep the blue color of the sky, sometimes reduce the exposure compensation to perhaps -2/3, or even -1.
Some of your shots are fine for the sky, others have the sky over-exposed. (Sometimes over-exposure can sometimes be a good choice though. It depends on what you want for the shot.)
The tip is: try not to let the camera decide exposure for you, decide what you want and work the camera to get that for you.
The rest of the shot will be darker, but you can brighten where needed in picture editing software, later. But you can't recover the sky when it's been over-exposed (aka, "blown") to white.
You'll find most of my tips to not be specific to the "T." My favorite cameras, like the "T," allow me to make my exposure, shutter, ISO, focus, and aperture choices quite intuitively. So almost no tips needed for the camera itself!
By the way "exposure compensation" is you telling the camera how light or dark the picture will be from the camera. You can also tell the camera that with "manual" settings (versus the camera's automatic settings), but you don't have to dive into that just yet.
So, another tip after Brian's: For outside shots where you want to keep the blue color of the sky, sometimes reduce the exposure compensation to perhaps -2/3, or even -1.
Some of your shots are fine for the sky, others have the sky over-exposed. (Sometimes over-exposure can sometimes be a good choice though. It depends on what you want for the shot.)
The tip is: try not to let the camera decide exposure for you, decide what you want and work the camera to get that for you.
The rest of the shot will be darker, but you can brighten where needed in picture editing software, later. But you can't recover the sky when it's been over-exposed (aka, "blown") to white.
You'll find most of my tips to not be specific to the "T." My favorite cameras, like the "T," allow me to make my exposure, shutter, ISO, focus, and aperture choices quite intuitively. So almost no tips needed for the camera itself!
By the way "exposure compensation" is you telling the camera how light or dark the picture will be from the camera. You can also tell the camera that with "manual" settings (versus the camera's automatic settings), but you don't have to dive into that just yet.
Thanks for the tips. I have to confess that I always use--auto for I have no idea how to manual. That's why I asked some tips. However, I will try your advice while I am traveling.
The Auto modes have an "Exposure Compensation" that just tells the camera to make things brighter or darker than they normally would. If the sky is coming out too bright, you need to set the camera to make it a "bit darker". Setting "-2/3" exposure compensation will do this. I tend to use exposure compensation with my cameras rather than full-manual.
