Paul Giguere
www.paulgiguere.com
- Location
- Wayland, MA USA
Introduction
With the recent announcement by Ricoh of the revised Ricoh GR Digital camera, the Ricoh GR Digital IV, I thought an article explaining why this camera line is so popular with so many photographers and why it remains the camera I use most often for most of my photography, might be of interest to readers of SeriousCompacts.com. This article is not a review of the GR Digital camera but rather it’s a discussion about a camera design philosophy and how that philosophy helps photographers (myself included) separate the technology from the actual process of making photographs (admittedly a technological process unto itself). For this article, I’ll reference the GR Digital III, which I own and will refer to as the GRD, and I’ll discuss specifically how I’ve set-up the camera (basically I will share my GRD soup recipe) and how I actually use it in various photographic contexts in the field. NOTE: All photos that appear in this article (with the exception of product photos) were made with a Ricoh GRD III and edited using Adobe Lightroom. Black and white conversion was accomplished using Nik Silver Efex Pro v1.x. The photos are from various documentary projects that I have worked on over the past three years. For more information (and photos) visit my web site at http://www.paulgiguere.com
The GRD camera has an almost cult following among many photographers around the world but sales in the U.S. and Europe have never been strong, Ricoh has never aggressively marketed the camera outside of Japan nor has Ricoh ever tried to go head-to-head with compact cameras from the likes of Panasonic, Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Olympus. The GRD is prized for it’s compact size, ergonomics, lens quality, customizability, and a photo quality that sometimes is reminiscent of film (particularly with black and white photos). By ignoring the big camera-makers, Ricoh is able to set it’s own agenda rather than be ruled by the agenda of others. This approach will never move Ricoh into the top echelons of camera manufacturers but from what I’ve seen, Ricoh is quite content targeting photographic enthusiasts who understand and appreciate Ricoh design philosophy.
The cult-like status of the camera has also been fueled by the adoption of the GR (film), and later the GRD cameras, by photographers like Daido Moriyama (the modern-day patron saint of street photographers who appreciate the rough, blurred, high contrast look that Moriyama is so well known for). Ironically, and just for the record, Moriyama probably couldn’t care less what camera he is using as long as it meets his needs (in other words it is simple and quick to operate) and is compact enough for street photography (easily carried and doesn’t draw attention to the photographer). There is a lot of wisdom in that “couldn’t care less” philosophy. In order to get a better handle on the GRD though, it helps to look at the history of the successful and popular GR line going back to the mid-1990’s when Ricoh released a compact film camera called the GR1.
History
A basic 35mm film camera, the GR1 featured aperture priority control, exposure compensation and a fixed f2.8 28mm focal-length lens. It also had a self-timer, built-in flash, and a basic viewfinder. Subsequent versions of the camera added a date function (GR1 Date), an illuminated display (GR1s), and the ability to change ISO and exposure bracketing (GR1v), among other miscellaneous features from model to model. A final version of the film-based camera was made with a 21mm focal length lens (GR21). The GR camera line from the beginning was well made and solid (featuring a magnesium alloy body), comfortable to hold and use, was simple to operate, and took great photos. It was embraced by photographers in Japan and by anyone outside of Japan who was able to obtain the camera. Today the GR film cameras sells for upwards of $500 for cameras in excellent condition with the box and related accessories. What really set the GR apart though was a feature that would come to define the GR line as a camera for street photographers, Snap Focus.
The Snap Focus setting on the GR film cameras is actually quite simple. Set the focus to “snap” and the camera is pre-focused to two meters. What this meant was that you no longer had to wait for the camera to achieve focus when you pushed half-way down on the shutter release. You just pressed all the way down and, as long as you were within two meters of your subject, the subject would be in focus. This simple, elegant method was how many street photographers already focused their cameras, that is, they zone focused the lens to a particular distance using the distance setting on the lens so that all subjects at a certain distance would be in focus. This is a bit different, and less complex, than hyperfocal focusing where you can obtain a maximum DOF based on the f-stop you have your camera set to to achieve a range of focus. The Ricoh GR camera took the complexity out of all of this by allowing you to simply set the camera to snap mode and make the photo without waiting for the auto-focus system to catch up. I’m sure this capability was probably not unique to Ricoh cameras but Ricoh seized on this functionality and promoted it and buyers responded.
In 2005 Ricoh released a digital version of the GR film camera called simply the GR Digital (also known today as the GRD I). The camera was virtually identical physically to it’s film-based counterparts with the exception that the lens housing was a bit larger, the camera had a maximum aperture of f2.4 (versus f2.8 on the film-based cameras) and an LCD screen (no built-in viewfinder but one could be attached to the hot shoe) and additional controls on the back for managing other functions specific to a digital camera. The original GRD also used an 8 megapixel sensor. The GRD I was followed in 2007 by the GRD II (sporting an upgraded 10 megapixel sensor along with various updates and upgrades), and then by the GRD III in 2009 (with, among several additional improvements, an f1.9 lens). Ricoh is also well known as a company that is continuously working to improve and add to the features of their cameras after product launch. It is typical that Ricoh will release several firmware upgrades between product updates. Sometimes these updates will fix issues or problems but usually it is to add new features (something that more camera makers should consider). True to it’s two-year cycle established in 2005, Ricoh’s announcement of the GRD IV in 2011 follows in the same tradition and footsteps as the cameras that came before it.
It is also worth mentioning that the Ricoh GXR camera system, while it shares several traits with the GRD line of cameras (namely a similarly designed but larger body and a similar user interface), is really a different camera in that it utilizes interchangeable lens/sensor modules that range from small sensor zoom modules to fixed focal length, medium sensor modules (28mm and 50mm equivalent currently) as well as a medium sensor module that accepts M-type lens such as those used on Leica M film and digital cameras as well as Zeiss Ikon and Voigtlander Bessa film cameras (to name a few). The bottom-line is that the GXR is a different system and not really a part of the philosophy that Ricoh is pushing for the GRD line.
Impressions
The first thing you notice when holding a GRD camera is that it is small (small enough to fit into a shirt pocket or jacket pocket) but not the smallest in it’s class. It is also surprisingly heavy (you might want to re-think putting it in your shirt pocket). The camera fits well in small to medium-sized hands. Those with larger hands might find the camera a bit smallish but these folks would have the same problem with just about any other compact camera of a similar size. The rubberized grip gives you something to hold on to. When handling the camera, I find my right thumb fits comfortably on the back of the camera with my other fingers wrapped around the front where there is a hump/perch. The camera simply feels good to hold and it is easy to use the camera one-handed when necessary.
Button and dial layout is well thought out with essential buttons located exactly where they should be. The top dial on the camera allows you to easily set the camera mode from fully automatic, manual, program mode, aperture or shutter priority or to one of three saved camera set-ups (aka My Settings). A particularly nice feature of the top dial is a locking function where you have to hold down a small button next to the dial before you can rotate it. Some people hate this feature because they feel it slows them down a bit when changing aperture (for example) however I love this feature. I always know that if I had the aperture set to aperture priority when I put the camera in my bag, it will be set to aperture priority when I take it out (the dial can’t be accidently rotated when putting the camera into and out of a bag, pants pocket, purse, etc.).
There are four additional dials, one on the front of the camera just in front of the shutter release button, and two adjustment rocker dials on the back along with a toggle wheel. For the most part, the buttons and dials can be customized so that their functions and behavior closely match how you like to work. The two Fn buttons on the back in particular can be customized to directly access almost any function that the camera is capable of. Also, the behavior of the adjustment dials can be changed as well (more on my custom settings later).
The three-inch LCD display is crisp and clear (920,000 pixels) however the finish has been known to wear over time (particularly if you don’t baby the camera which I don’t). This can happen due to the wiping off of finger prints, slipping the camera into pants pockets, etc. I’m not saying it is a real problem for most people but something to be aware of. When I first bought the GRD3 I knew this would be an issue for me so I bought an LCD protector cover and attached it immediately upon removing the plastic film from the LCD that is a part of the protective packaging from the manufacturer. I highly recommend the AC-MAXX LCD protector (ACMAXX LCD Protector - Ricoh GR Digital III). AC-MAXX also makes a protector for the front lens housing (which will protect the lens from fingerprints and scratches) which doesn’t interfere with the lens retracting into the body when powered off however I prefer not to have anything on the lens. Both of these protectors can easily be removed and reapplied as needed.
Another possible issue with the LCD is that it can be difficult to see in bright light (particularly in bright sunlight). This may have been mitigated with the new GRD IV (which sports a new LCD screen) but with the GRD III some people prefer to use an optical viewfinder on the hot shoe (Ricoh makes two of them but any viewfinder suitable for 28mm focal length lens should work just fine). A nice feature when using an optical viewfinder is a small green light that you can just see when peering through the viewfinder that alerts you that you have achieved focus (when using AF). As with many functions, this can be turned off and you can also activate a setting that lets the camera know you are using a viewfinder (thus shutting off various LCD display functions as appropriate). You can even set the green power light that is recessed into the power button to “off” so that it doesn’t become a distraction when making photos in dim light. The thinking that went into these little details collectively make the camera a joy to use.
The camera comes with a wrist strap, which I prefer to use (an optional neck strap is available but pricey), and a battery and charger (in addition to a printed manual, which isn’t bad, and other paraphernalia which I typically ignore). In addition to a memory card or two, a spare battery is also useful to have. Regarding the charger, it simply plugs directly into an outlet (no intermediary cord needed). I really like this as it is less to pack when traveling and one less thing to lose.
I don’t think there is any one perfect carry bag/case for the GRD. It really is a matter of taste and personal preference. For the record, I like a small camera bag with a shoulder strap for carrying the camera (and spare battery and cards) around but when I’m actually making photos or just walking around prepared to make photos, I keep the camera out and use the wrist strap. My favorite bag for the GRD is the LowePro Apex 60 AW (Lowepro - Apex 60 AW) but your mileage will vary in this regard.
The Soup Recipe
I think it might be useful to discuss the kind of photographs I tend to make as it will help explain the various settings that I use on the GRD (my soup recipe so to speak). First, I’m primarily a black and white photographer. I can appreciate color photography just fine however I have trouble deciding how to produce color photographs (much less print them). Yes, I know there are ways to automate a lot of this but I just can’t decide what looks good and it’s complicated by the fact that there are so many ways to treat color. Also, I find that color sometimes competes with the intended subject of the image (the color becomes the subject). Sometimes this is intentional but most times it is not. Black and white just works best for helping me communicate my vision photographically.
Much of the work I do is of a social documentary nature. I will also just make photos of things I find interesting just because I can but I’m talking here about how I usually use the camera in the field. This means I typically make photos of people (both indoors and out) and sometimes of social landscapes (landscapes that are products of human intervention). The deep depth of field inherent in a camera with a small sensor like the GRD is perfect for this kind of photography as I’m usually trying to capture detail from the foreground to the background. Out-of-focus details, or blur, or bokeh, are not that important to me for this kind of photography. This is not to say you can’t achieve out-of-focus details (backgrounds for example with the foreground subject in focus) it just requires careful placement of the camera and careful focusing.
Regarding camera settings, I’ve put together a table below that outlines the major settings (at least the ones that really matter to me) that I have set across the three menus (remember this is for the GRD3 with version 2.30 of the firmware and the menus may be different with subsequent firmware versions and/or the GRD IV):
<table class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: medium none;" align="center" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border: 1pt solid windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Shooting Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: 1pt 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: solid solid solid none; border-color: windowtext windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: 1pt 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: solid solid solid none; border-color: windowtext windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Picture Quality/Size
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> RAW (10M)
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I only shoot in RAW because I want the best image possible later in Lightroom. I know that there are many cool picture settings possible if I use JPEG but I can do that stuff later in post-production if I really want to. RAW just gives me more options later.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Focus
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Spot AF
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This is a hold-over from my DSLR days where I much preferred spot focus over letting the camera try to figure out what I want in focus in a scene using all those focus points.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Snap Focus Distance
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> 2.5m
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This is my initial setting for Snap Focus however I will frequently change this in the field by holding the Up Arrow on the wheel on the back while turning the front dial located in front of the shutter button.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Full Press Snap
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto-Hi ISO
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This will keep the ISO in line when using Full Press Snap (which basically allows you to press the shutter all the way down without letting the camera achieve focus while in a focus mode other than Snap Focus) with the maximum ISO you will allow the camera to use normally.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Pre-AF
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> On
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may turn this off at times as the lens makes slight clicking sounds as you move the camera around and the lens continuously focuses. It does however make overall focus faster because the lens is usually ready for you when you are ready to make an exposure.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Exposure Metering
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Center
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I go back and forth between Center and Spot metering depending on the lighting conditions.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Image Setting
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Black and White
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Since I will eventually post-process in B&W, I find it useful to review my images in B&W on the LCD (when I bother to review the images that is).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Noise Reduction
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Off
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may use noise reduction later in post-processing if necessary but usually isn’t desirable particularly in B&W as the noise resembles traditional film grain.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> White Balance
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may adjust the white balance later in post-processing if necessary (RAW makes this possible) but will sometimes change this setting in the camera if the lighting is causing problems.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ISO Setting
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto-Hi
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I usually let the camera set the ISO unless the lighting is difficult.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Auto Aperture Shift
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> On
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This will shift the aperture to prevent over-exposure regardless of the initial f-stop setting. This feature basically has saved me on a few occasions particularly when moving from indoors to bright outdoor situations and I forget to change the aperture from something very wide like f1.9 (which will overexpose my photo) to something more reasonable for bright conditions (e.g. f4 or smaller).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Key Custom Options Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 1
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Exposure Metering
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 2
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> ISO
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 3
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Focus
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 4
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> White Balance
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Who knows, maybe I need to change this occasionally when things just aren’t working out well light-wise.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Set Fn1 Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AE Lock
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Again, this is a hold-over from my DSLR days where I frequently use exposure lock to get the correct exposure in a tricky lighting situation. I use this function all of the time.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Set Fn2 Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AF/Snap
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Basically I usually switch between AF and Snap all of the time and so assigning this function to one of my Fn buttons helps me do this quickly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Zoom Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Exposure Compensation
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Since I don’t use digital zoom (yuk) and I don’t change the white balance frequently, the only other function that can be assigned to this button is exposure compensation (which I do use occasionally if I’m having trouble locking exposure with AE Lock).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Setup Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Auto Power Off
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> 5 minutes or 30 minutes
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This depends on what I’m doing with the camera. Usually I leave this set to 5 minutes unless I’m roaming around and need the camera ready at a moments notice (no start-up time) in which case I will set it to 30 minutes (keep an extra battery with you though and shut off the LCD until you need it to conserve power if you do this).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ISO Auto-High Settings
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AUTO 800
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I find that most of the time there isn’t a need to expand the ISO beyond 800 so this setting works well for me. ISO 1600 can show banding at times (not always and it is hard to see) but I’ll use ISO 1600 if I need it and worry about quality issues later. Better to get the photo at 1600 ISO than not at all.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Volume Settings
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Off
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I like my cameras to be entirely silent. No beeps or simulated shutter sounds. With the sound off, you can barely hear the actual shutter when taking a photo in a silent room. Outside, you really don’t hear the shutter in most situations.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
I’m also a minimalist when it comes to working on images after the fact. I use Lightroom for all of my work these days. My workflow post capture is simple:
In the Field
In the field, I tend to shoot a bit loosely. I carry the camera one-handed with the wrist strap and I use the LCD to compose. As an aside, I’ve tried the optical viewfinder but for some reason I just don’t like it. It slows me down and my photography isn’t quite as loose when I’m trying to compose through the viewfinder. I also feel looking through a viewfinder closes me off from by subjects (particularly when making portraits for example). This is one of the reasons I stopped using a DSLR (Canon 5D).
The key I think to really “becoming one” with the GRD is to practice with the custom settings until you not only have assigned the functions that you use the most to the Fn buttons and such but that you can use these buttons intuitively without even looking at the camera (if possible; some functions of course require you to peek at the LCD). This takes practice of course but it comes fairly quickly.
Why the emphasis on customization and practice? I feel the GRD is an extremely well designed camera. Every single detail of the camera seems to have been thought out with respect to how photographers actually use cameras including the ability to customize the camera for each individual photographer’s preferred method of making photographs. I think Ricoh probably talked to many photographers about how they actually make photos and incorporated that feedback into the design. We’ve seen enough “stupidly” implemented camera features on many different cameras in the past to know that some of these cameras are designed by people who have probably never really used a camera in any serious way. I suspect that many of the folks who work at Ricoh designing the cameras are themselves photographers too (at least that is my fantasy image about how Ricoh works).
What the GRD does is that it allows me to basically forget that I’m using a camera in the first place. I don’t think about the camera other than to bring it up to make an exposure. Yes, I do peek at the LCD to make sure I’ve got the composition that I want but sometimes I don’t bother and I shoot without looking at the LCD (mostly because I don’t want to break my attention from the action/composition that may be unfolding in front of me). This is different from shooting totally blind without thinking about composition and hoping for the best. I know what I want in my composition when I see it and I know (through experience) what will and won’t be in the photo before I press the shutter release.
Remember, the GRD has a fixed focal length lens of 28mm. Use this camera enough (or even exclusively) and you will come to know the world through a 28mm sensibility. The same can be said for working with a camera or lens at a different focal length. I used to work only with a 50mm lens on my Canon 5D for years (a full-frame sensor which gave me an actual 50mm focal length, no multiplier due to a smaller sensor). I came to know the world through a 50mm focal length (which is also known as a “normal lens” because it approximates how we see compositionally in the real world through our own eyes). Moving to 28mm was a bit of a stretch but over time (about three years of working almost exclusively with a 28mm focal length), it has become very natural to me. A 50mm lens for me now would be equivalent to a telephoto lens for other photographers and I have very little need for a telephoto lens for the type of photography that I do.
The GRD is also small and most people, if they notice it all, think you are just some goofy tourist snapping photos and typically will ignore you. I don’t believe in stealth photography so I don’t try to hide the fact that I’m making a photo of someone but neither do I need to advertise myself either. This was one reason why I gave up on DSLR cameras. They basically shout to world, “Hey look at me, I’m a photographer!” whether you intend to or not and consequently, we tend to behave that way (kind of like the way people behave differently when they are dressed in a suit or fancy clothes among people who aren’t). This all runs contrary to what I’m doing with my photography, particularly with my documentary work where I am also trying to establish trust and a rapport with my subjects (constantly looking through viewfinders can hinder this as well).
I usually make between one and six exposures of a scene, usually from different vantage points if possible or if the action is evolving. For example: the man raises his hand to the woman’s face (snap), she looks up at him and makes eye contact (snap), he bends his head down to hers (snap), they kiss (snap). You get the idea. I’m rapidly taking photos like this and the GRD (particularly in Snap Focus mode) allows me to do that. Being ready for a photographic moment like this also means you can’t be fiddling with your camera settings or sometimes even looking through a viewfinder to get the composition right. You just need to respond. Also, the final exposure may not be the best exposure. For me anyway, it is usually the first exposure that is the keeper in a sequence like I just described. This is not because I’m a genius or something but rather because I had a camera that was ready to make an exposure of a scene in front of me that really grabbed me and usually grabs me later when editing out the keepers, and usually grabs an audience for the photo when I print it or post it on-line. In other words, my first impression of a scene is usually my best impression and the GRD allows me to photograph that impression.
As I walk I will sometimes make fine adjustments using the Fn buttons and settings as needed because I can see conditions changing as I walk (e.g. knowing I will soon move into a building from the bright outdoors). Sometimes, you don’t have time to make the adjustments you want to and you just have to make the photo and hope for the best (shooting RAW helps in this regard later in post processing but is in no way foolproof and should not be used as a crutch). As I tell my seven year-old son: “You get what you get and you don’t get upset”.
Anyway, I know you might be thinking that this advice is great if you’re a documentary or street photographer but I have to say I use the same techniques for just about any photographic situation I find myself in including making snapshots at a birthday party, making a formal portrait, a landscape photo with no people, etc. For me, it’s about being ready to make a photograph of what grabs or motivates me immediately. I have to work instinctively to achieve this state of photographic connectivity to what is in front of me and that is what the GRD allows me to do. No other camera that I have owned has ever come close.
Conclusion
When family and friends who are casual photographers inevitably ask me what kind of camera to purchase and whether they too should get a Ricoh GRD, I always say “No, don’t buy this camera, you won’t be happy with it.” You might think that strange given how much I like the GRD but I really feel it isn’t a camera for the general camera-using public.
First, the camera lacks a zoom lens (which many people expect, particularly zooms that go from very wide to astronomical telephoto ranges). Also, the camera (even in the case of the new GRD IV) is has a 10 megapixel sensor. Consumers typically think that more megapixels is better and but that really isn’t the case (particularly with a small sensor camera) and 10MP seems to work best in terms of controlling noise and achieving image quality. The camera also lacks common consumer features such as face recognition, touch-screen controls on the LCD, and advanced High Definition (HD) video capabilities (all standard on most consumer cameras these days). In short, the GRD concept is not one that lends itself well to the typical consumer-oriented photographic culture.
The GRD is a camera designed for photographers who are looking for a small, easy to carry, camera that can provide complete manual control over the photographic process (easily) while also giving photographers the ability to customize the camera and it’s settings to best meet their needs in the field. To the GRD photographer, the fixed focal length lens (28mm) is not a challenge but an opportunity for interacting with our subjects in a way that longer focal lengths don’t allow for. With a 28mm lens, we must get closer and in doing so, engage with our subjects (whether a person or a thing). Features such as Snap Focus allows us to be more spontaneous and aware of the photographic possibilities before us without having to wait for the camera. The compactness of the camera allows us to carry it everywhere but it is also designed to be ergonomic to the point where it becomes an extension of our hand and our eyes. The GRD does what all cameras should do, it allows us to express ourselves photographically. In a sense, it is an extension of our photographic awareness.
Post Script
You might be wondering if I intend to purchase the new Ricoh GRD IV. The answer is that I already have one on pre-order (placed through SeriousCompacts.com). Given that the I use the GRD III as my primary camera (indeed, as of this writing it is my only camera) and that the new features of the GRD IV are features that I will use on a daily basis in my photography, the cost is worth it to me. If you have been sitting on the fence about the GRD camera and are interested in getting one, you might try purchasing a GRD III (the price on new GRD III cameras has come down significantly and will drop further and used cameras can be found everywhere on-line). The GRD III is still a wonderful camera and I will keep mine as a back-up.
_____________________
Paul Giguere is a photographer based in the United States. His current focus is on social documentary photographic projects that show the positive aspects of society and community. He is the host of the podcast Thoughts on Photography (www.thoughtsonphotography.com) and you can also visit his personal web site at: www.paulgiguere.com. -Amin
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With the recent announcement by Ricoh of the revised Ricoh GR Digital camera, the Ricoh GR Digital IV, I thought an article explaining why this camera line is so popular with so many photographers and why it remains the camera I use most often for most of my photography, might be of interest to readers of SeriousCompacts.com. This article is not a review of the GR Digital camera but rather it’s a discussion about a camera design philosophy and how that philosophy helps photographers (myself included) separate the technology from the actual process of making photographs (admittedly a technological process unto itself). For this article, I’ll reference the GR Digital III, which I own and will refer to as the GRD, and I’ll discuss specifically how I’ve set-up the camera (basically I will share my GRD soup recipe) and how I actually use it in various photographic contexts in the field. NOTE: All photos that appear in this article (with the exception of product photos) were made with a Ricoh GRD III and edited using Adobe Lightroom. Black and white conversion was accomplished using Nik Silver Efex Pro v1.x. The photos are from various documentary projects that I have worked on over the past three years. For more information (and photos) visit my web site at http://www.paulgiguere.com
The GRD camera has an almost cult following among many photographers around the world but sales in the U.S. and Europe have never been strong, Ricoh has never aggressively marketed the camera outside of Japan nor has Ricoh ever tried to go head-to-head with compact cameras from the likes of Panasonic, Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Olympus. The GRD is prized for it’s compact size, ergonomics, lens quality, customizability, and a photo quality that sometimes is reminiscent of film (particularly with black and white photos). By ignoring the big camera-makers, Ricoh is able to set it’s own agenda rather than be ruled by the agenda of others. This approach will never move Ricoh into the top echelons of camera manufacturers but from what I’ve seen, Ricoh is quite content targeting photographic enthusiasts who understand and appreciate Ricoh design philosophy.
The cult-like status of the camera has also been fueled by the adoption of the GR (film), and later the GRD cameras, by photographers like Daido Moriyama (the modern-day patron saint of street photographers who appreciate the rough, blurred, high contrast look that Moriyama is so well known for). Ironically, and just for the record, Moriyama probably couldn’t care less what camera he is using as long as it meets his needs (in other words it is simple and quick to operate) and is compact enough for street photography (easily carried and doesn’t draw attention to the photographer). There is a lot of wisdom in that “couldn’t care less” philosophy. In order to get a better handle on the GRD though, it helps to look at the history of the successful and popular GR line going back to the mid-1990’s when Ricoh released a compact film camera called the GR1.
History
A basic 35mm film camera, the GR1 featured aperture priority control, exposure compensation and a fixed f2.8 28mm focal-length lens. It also had a self-timer, built-in flash, and a basic viewfinder. Subsequent versions of the camera added a date function (GR1 Date), an illuminated display (GR1s), and the ability to change ISO and exposure bracketing (GR1v), among other miscellaneous features from model to model. A final version of the film-based camera was made with a 21mm focal length lens (GR21). The GR camera line from the beginning was well made and solid (featuring a magnesium alloy body), comfortable to hold and use, was simple to operate, and took great photos. It was embraced by photographers in Japan and by anyone outside of Japan who was able to obtain the camera. Today the GR film cameras sells for upwards of $500 for cameras in excellent condition with the box and related accessories. What really set the GR apart though was a feature that would come to define the GR line as a camera for street photographers, Snap Focus.
The Snap Focus setting on the GR film cameras is actually quite simple. Set the focus to “snap” and the camera is pre-focused to two meters. What this meant was that you no longer had to wait for the camera to achieve focus when you pushed half-way down on the shutter release. You just pressed all the way down and, as long as you were within two meters of your subject, the subject would be in focus. This simple, elegant method was how many street photographers already focused their cameras, that is, they zone focused the lens to a particular distance using the distance setting on the lens so that all subjects at a certain distance would be in focus. This is a bit different, and less complex, than hyperfocal focusing where you can obtain a maximum DOF based on the f-stop you have your camera set to to achieve a range of focus. The Ricoh GR camera took the complexity out of all of this by allowing you to simply set the camera to snap mode and make the photo without waiting for the auto-focus system to catch up. I’m sure this capability was probably not unique to Ricoh cameras but Ricoh seized on this functionality and promoted it and buyers responded.
In 2005 Ricoh released a digital version of the GR film camera called simply the GR Digital (also known today as the GRD I). The camera was virtually identical physically to it’s film-based counterparts with the exception that the lens housing was a bit larger, the camera had a maximum aperture of f2.4 (versus f2.8 on the film-based cameras) and an LCD screen (no built-in viewfinder but one could be attached to the hot shoe) and additional controls on the back for managing other functions specific to a digital camera. The original GRD also used an 8 megapixel sensor. The GRD I was followed in 2007 by the GRD II (sporting an upgraded 10 megapixel sensor along with various updates and upgrades), and then by the GRD III in 2009 (with, among several additional improvements, an f1.9 lens). Ricoh is also well known as a company that is continuously working to improve and add to the features of their cameras after product launch. It is typical that Ricoh will release several firmware upgrades between product updates. Sometimes these updates will fix issues or problems but usually it is to add new features (something that more camera makers should consider). True to it’s two-year cycle established in 2005, Ricoh’s announcement of the GRD IV in 2011 follows in the same tradition and footsteps as the cameras that came before it.
It is also worth mentioning that the Ricoh GXR camera system, while it shares several traits with the GRD line of cameras (namely a similarly designed but larger body and a similar user interface), is really a different camera in that it utilizes interchangeable lens/sensor modules that range from small sensor zoom modules to fixed focal length, medium sensor modules (28mm and 50mm equivalent currently) as well as a medium sensor module that accepts M-type lens such as those used on Leica M film and digital cameras as well as Zeiss Ikon and Voigtlander Bessa film cameras (to name a few). The bottom-line is that the GXR is a different system and not really a part of the philosophy that Ricoh is pushing for the GRD line.
Impressions
The first thing you notice when holding a GRD camera is that it is small (small enough to fit into a shirt pocket or jacket pocket) but not the smallest in it’s class. It is also surprisingly heavy (you might want to re-think putting it in your shirt pocket). The camera fits well in small to medium-sized hands. Those with larger hands might find the camera a bit smallish but these folks would have the same problem with just about any other compact camera of a similar size. The rubberized grip gives you something to hold on to. When handling the camera, I find my right thumb fits comfortably on the back of the camera with my other fingers wrapped around the front where there is a hump/perch. The camera simply feels good to hold and it is easy to use the camera one-handed when necessary.
Button and dial layout is well thought out with essential buttons located exactly where they should be. The top dial on the camera allows you to easily set the camera mode from fully automatic, manual, program mode, aperture or shutter priority or to one of three saved camera set-ups (aka My Settings). A particularly nice feature of the top dial is a locking function where you have to hold down a small button next to the dial before you can rotate it. Some people hate this feature because they feel it slows them down a bit when changing aperture (for example) however I love this feature. I always know that if I had the aperture set to aperture priority when I put the camera in my bag, it will be set to aperture priority when I take it out (the dial can’t be accidently rotated when putting the camera into and out of a bag, pants pocket, purse, etc.).
There are four additional dials, one on the front of the camera just in front of the shutter release button, and two adjustment rocker dials on the back along with a toggle wheel. For the most part, the buttons and dials can be customized so that their functions and behavior closely match how you like to work. The two Fn buttons on the back in particular can be customized to directly access almost any function that the camera is capable of. Also, the behavior of the adjustment dials can be changed as well (more on my custom settings later).
The three-inch LCD display is crisp and clear (920,000 pixels) however the finish has been known to wear over time (particularly if you don’t baby the camera which I don’t). This can happen due to the wiping off of finger prints, slipping the camera into pants pockets, etc. I’m not saying it is a real problem for most people but something to be aware of. When I first bought the GRD3 I knew this would be an issue for me so I bought an LCD protector cover and attached it immediately upon removing the plastic film from the LCD that is a part of the protective packaging from the manufacturer. I highly recommend the AC-MAXX LCD protector (ACMAXX LCD Protector - Ricoh GR Digital III). AC-MAXX also makes a protector for the front lens housing (which will protect the lens from fingerprints and scratches) which doesn’t interfere with the lens retracting into the body when powered off however I prefer not to have anything on the lens. Both of these protectors can easily be removed and reapplied as needed.
Another possible issue with the LCD is that it can be difficult to see in bright light (particularly in bright sunlight). This may have been mitigated with the new GRD IV (which sports a new LCD screen) but with the GRD III some people prefer to use an optical viewfinder on the hot shoe (Ricoh makes two of them but any viewfinder suitable for 28mm focal length lens should work just fine). A nice feature when using an optical viewfinder is a small green light that you can just see when peering through the viewfinder that alerts you that you have achieved focus (when using AF). As with many functions, this can be turned off and you can also activate a setting that lets the camera know you are using a viewfinder (thus shutting off various LCD display functions as appropriate). You can even set the green power light that is recessed into the power button to “off” so that it doesn’t become a distraction when making photos in dim light. The thinking that went into these little details collectively make the camera a joy to use.
The camera comes with a wrist strap, which I prefer to use (an optional neck strap is available but pricey), and a battery and charger (in addition to a printed manual, which isn’t bad, and other paraphernalia which I typically ignore). In addition to a memory card or two, a spare battery is also useful to have. Regarding the charger, it simply plugs directly into an outlet (no intermediary cord needed). I really like this as it is less to pack when traveling and one less thing to lose.
I don’t think there is any one perfect carry bag/case for the GRD. It really is a matter of taste and personal preference. For the record, I like a small camera bag with a shoulder strap for carrying the camera (and spare battery and cards) around but when I’m actually making photos or just walking around prepared to make photos, I keep the camera out and use the wrist strap. My favorite bag for the GRD is the LowePro Apex 60 AW (Lowepro - Apex 60 AW) but your mileage will vary in this regard.
The Soup Recipe
I think it might be useful to discuss the kind of photographs I tend to make as it will help explain the various settings that I use on the GRD (my soup recipe so to speak). First, I’m primarily a black and white photographer. I can appreciate color photography just fine however I have trouble deciding how to produce color photographs (much less print them). Yes, I know there are ways to automate a lot of this but I just can’t decide what looks good and it’s complicated by the fact that there are so many ways to treat color. Also, I find that color sometimes competes with the intended subject of the image (the color becomes the subject). Sometimes this is intentional but most times it is not. Black and white just works best for helping me communicate my vision photographically.
Much of the work I do is of a social documentary nature. I will also just make photos of things I find interesting just because I can but I’m talking here about how I usually use the camera in the field. This means I typically make photos of people (both indoors and out) and sometimes of social landscapes (landscapes that are products of human intervention). The deep depth of field inherent in a camera with a small sensor like the GRD is perfect for this kind of photography as I’m usually trying to capture detail from the foreground to the background. Out-of-focus details, or blur, or bokeh, are not that important to me for this kind of photography. This is not to say you can’t achieve out-of-focus details (backgrounds for example with the foreground subject in focus) it just requires careful placement of the camera and careful focusing.
Regarding camera settings, I’ve put together a table below that outlines the major settings (at least the ones that really matter to me) that I have set across the three menus (remember this is for the GRD3 with version 2.30 of the firmware and the menus may be different with subsequent firmware versions and/or the GRD IV):
<table class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: medium none;" align="center" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border: 1pt solid windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Shooting Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: 1pt 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: solid solid solid none; border-color: windowtext windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: 1pt 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: solid solid solid none; border-color: windowtext windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Picture Quality/Size
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> RAW (10M)
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I only shoot in RAW because I want the best image possible later in Lightroom. I know that there are many cool picture settings possible if I use JPEG but I can do that stuff later in post-production if I really want to. RAW just gives me more options later.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Focus
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Spot AF
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This is a hold-over from my DSLR days where I much preferred spot focus over letting the camera try to figure out what I want in focus in a scene using all those focus points.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Snap Focus Distance
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> 2.5m
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This is my initial setting for Snap Focus however I will frequently change this in the field by holding the Up Arrow on the wheel on the back while turning the front dial located in front of the shutter button.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Full Press Snap
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto-Hi ISO
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This will keep the ISO in line when using Full Press Snap (which basically allows you to press the shutter all the way down without letting the camera achieve focus while in a focus mode other than Snap Focus) with the maximum ISO you will allow the camera to use normally.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Pre-AF
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> On
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may turn this off at times as the lens makes slight clicking sounds as you move the camera around and the lens continuously focuses. It does however make overall focus faster because the lens is usually ready for you when you are ready to make an exposure.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Exposure Metering
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Center
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I go back and forth between Center and Spot metering depending on the lighting conditions.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Image Setting
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Black and White
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Since I will eventually post-process in B&W, I find it useful to review my images in B&W on the LCD (when I bother to review the images that is).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Noise Reduction
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Off
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may use noise reduction later in post-processing if necessary but usually isn’t desirable particularly in B&W as the noise resembles traditional film grain.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> White Balance
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I may adjust the white balance later in post-processing if necessary (RAW makes this possible) but will sometimes change this setting in the camera if the lighting is causing problems.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ISO Setting
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Auto-Hi
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I usually let the camera set the ISO unless the lighting is difficult.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Auto Aperture Shift
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> On
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This will shift the aperture to prevent over-exposure regardless of the initial f-stop setting. This feature basically has saved me on a few occasions particularly when moving from indoors to bright outdoor situations and I forget to change the aperture from something very wide like f1.9 (which will overexpose my photo) to something more reasonable for bright conditions (e.g. f4 or smaller).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Key Custom Options Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 1
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Exposure Metering
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 2
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> ISO
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 3
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Focus
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Provides quick access to something I change somewhat regularly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ADJ Lever Setting 4
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> White Balance
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Who knows, maybe I need to change this occasionally when things just aren’t working out well light-wise.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Set Fn1 Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AE Lock
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Again, this is a hold-over from my DSLR days where I frequently use exposure lock to get the correct exposure in a tricky lighting situation. I use this function all of the time.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Set Fn2 Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AF/Snap
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Basically I usually switch between AF and Snap all of the time and so assigning this function to one of my Fn buttons helps me do this quickly.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Zoom Button
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Exposure Compensation
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Since I don’t use digital zoom (yuk) and I don’t change the white balance frequently, the only other function that can be assigned to this button is exposure compensation (which I do use occasionally if I’m having trouble locking exposure with AE Lock).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Setup Menu
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Setting
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; background: none repeat scroll 0% 0% rgb(179, 179, 179); padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> Comments
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Auto Power Off
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> 5 minutes or 30 minutes
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> This depends on what I’m doing with the camera. Usually I leave this set to 5 minutes unless I’m roaming around and need the camera ready at a moments notice (no start-up time) in which case I will set it to 30 minutes (keep an extra battery with you though and shut off the LCD until you need it to conserve power if you do this).
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> ISO Auto-High Settings
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> AUTO 800
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I find that most of the time there isn’t a need to expand the ISO beyond 800 so this setting works well for me. ISO 1600 can show banding at times (not always and it is hard to see) but I’ll use ISO 1600 if I need it and worry about quality issues later. Better to get the photo at 1600 ISO than not at all.
</td> </tr> <tr style=""> <td style="width: 152.05pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt; border-style: none solid solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="203"> Volume Settings
</td> <td style="width: 146.15pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="195"> Off
</td> <td style="width: 144.6pt; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; border-style: none solid solid none; border-color: -moz-use-text-color windowtext windowtext -moz-use-text-color; padding: 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top" width="193"> I like my cameras to be entirely silent. No beeps or simulated shutter sounds. With the sound off, you can barely hear the actual shutter when taking a photo in a silent room. Outside, you really don’t hear the shutter in most situations.
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
I’m also a minimalist when it comes to working on images after the fact. I use Lightroom for all of my work these days. My workflow post capture is simple:
- Import the files from the memory card(s) into Lightroom
- Edit (star) the photos that I think are keepers
- Apply basic exposure, white balance, and other adjustments as needed to the color RAW version of the starred photos.
- Convert to black and white using Nik Silver Efex Pro plug-in for Lightroom. I know I can do this within Lightroom without a plug-in and that there are other plug-ins out there but I like Silver Efex Pro as it has a nice workflow, step-wise process within it. I generally start with a B&W film effect (usually Kodak Tri-X 400 because I like the contrast settings) and then work the photo from there using the available tools. Note that the film settings in Silver Efex Pro simply try to approximate the contrast, grain, and general look of the film equivalent. I find I still need to make adjustments to the photo to get it to where I like it. This is analogous to working in a chemical darkroom (dodging, burning, etc.) for me.
- Bring the new image back into Lightroom.
- Go through a second editing (star) process to narrow down the photos that are keepers after conversion to black and white.
- Print the images as 4x6” prints on my Epson 3800 printer using the Epson Advanced B&W settings and live with them for awhile on a magnetic board.
- Go through a third editing (star) process to eliminate images that don’t stay on the magnetic board. The resulting images are usually my final keepers.
In the Field
In the field, I tend to shoot a bit loosely. I carry the camera one-handed with the wrist strap and I use the LCD to compose. As an aside, I’ve tried the optical viewfinder but for some reason I just don’t like it. It slows me down and my photography isn’t quite as loose when I’m trying to compose through the viewfinder. I also feel looking through a viewfinder closes me off from by subjects (particularly when making portraits for example). This is one of the reasons I stopped using a DSLR (Canon 5D).
The key I think to really “becoming one” with the GRD is to practice with the custom settings until you not only have assigned the functions that you use the most to the Fn buttons and such but that you can use these buttons intuitively without even looking at the camera (if possible; some functions of course require you to peek at the LCD). This takes practice of course but it comes fairly quickly.
Why the emphasis on customization and practice? I feel the GRD is an extremely well designed camera. Every single detail of the camera seems to have been thought out with respect to how photographers actually use cameras including the ability to customize the camera for each individual photographer’s preferred method of making photographs. I think Ricoh probably talked to many photographers about how they actually make photos and incorporated that feedback into the design. We’ve seen enough “stupidly” implemented camera features on many different cameras in the past to know that some of these cameras are designed by people who have probably never really used a camera in any serious way. I suspect that many of the folks who work at Ricoh designing the cameras are themselves photographers too (at least that is my fantasy image about how Ricoh works).
What the GRD does is that it allows me to basically forget that I’m using a camera in the first place. I don’t think about the camera other than to bring it up to make an exposure. Yes, I do peek at the LCD to make sure I’ve got the composition that I want but sometimes I don’t bother and I shoot without looking at the LCD (mostly because I don’t want to break my attention from the action/composition that may be unfolding in front of me). This is different from shooting totally blind without thinking about composition and hoping for the best. I know what I want in my composition when I see it and I know (through experience) what will and won’t be in the photo before I press the shutter release.
Remember, the GRD has a fixed focal length lens of 28mm. Use this camera enough (or even exclusively) and you will come to know the world through a 28mm sensibility. The same can be said for working with a camera or lens at a different focal length. I used to work only with a 50mm lens on my Canon 5D for years (a full-frame sensor which gave me an actual 50mm focal length, no multiplier due to a smaller sensor). I came to know the world through a 50mm focal length (which is also known as a “normal lens” because it approximates how we see compositionally in the real world through our own eyes). Moving to 28mm was a bit of a stretch but over time (about three years of working almost exclusively with a 28mm focal length), it has become very natural to me. A 50mm lens for me now would be equivalent to a telephoto lens for other photographers and I have very little need for a telephoto lens for the type of photography that I do.
The GRD is also small and most people, if they notice it all, think you are just some goofy tourist snapping photos and typically will ignore you. I don’t believe in stealth photography so I don’t try to hide the fact that I’m making a photo of someone but neither do I need to advertise myself either. This was one reason why I gave up on DSLR cameras. They basically shout to world, “Hey look at me, I’m a photographer!” whether you intend to or not and consequently, we tend to behave that way (kind of like the way people behave differently when they are dressed in a suit or fancy clothes among people who aren’t). This all runs contrary to what I’m doing with my photography, particularly with my documentary work where I am also trying to establish trust and a rapport with my subjects (constantly looking through viewfinders can hinder this as well).
I usually make between one and six exposures of a scene, usually from different vantage points if possible or if the action is evolving. For example: the man raises his hand to the woman’s face (snap), she looks up at him and makes eye contact (snap), he bends his head down to hers (snap), they kiss (snap). You get the idea. I’m rapidly taking photos like this and the GRD (particularly in Snap Focus mode) allows me to do that. Being ready for a photographic moment like this also means you can’t be fiddling with your camera settings or sometimes even looking through a viewfinder to get the composition right. You just need to respond. Also, the final exposure may not be the best exposure. For me anyway, it is usually the first exposure that is the keeper in a sequence like I just described. This is not because I’m a genius or something but rather because I had a camera that was ready to make an exposure of a scene in front of me that really grabbed me and usually grabs me later when editing out the keepers, and usually grabs an audience for the photo when I print it or post it on-line. In other words, my first impression of a scene is usually my best impression and the GRD allows me to photograph that impression.
As I walk I will sometimes make fine adjustments using the Fn buttons and settings as needed because I can see conditions changing as I walk (e.g. knowing I will soon move into a building from the bright outdoors). Sometimes, you don’t have time to make the adjustments you want to and you just have to make the photo and hope for the best (shooting RAW helps in this regard later in post processing but is in no way foolproof and should not be used as a crutch). As I tell my seven year-old son: “You get what you get and you don’t get upset”.
Anyway, I know you might be thinking that this advice is great if you’re a documentary or street photographer but I have to say I use the same techniques for just about any photographic situation I find myself in including making snapshots at a birthday party, making a formal portrait, a landscape photo with no people, etc. For me, it’s about being ready to make a photograph of what grabs or motivates me immediately. I have to work instinctively to achieve this state of photographic connectivity to what is in front of me and that is what the GRD allows me to do. No other camera that I have owned has ever come close.
Conclusion
When family and friends who are casual photographers inevitably ask me what kind of camera to purchase and whether they too should get a Ricoh GRD, I always say “No, don’t buy this camera, you won’t be happy with it.” You might think that strange given how much I like the GRD but I really feel it isn’t a camera for the general camera-using public.
First, the camera lacks a zoom lens (which many people expect, particularly zooms that go from very wide to astronomical telephoto ranges). Also, the camera (even in the case of the new GRD IV) is has a 10 megapixel sensor. Consumers typically think that more megapixels is better and but that really isn’t the case (particularly with a small sensor camera) and 10MP seems to work best in terms of controlling noise and achieving image quality. The camera also lacks common consumer features such as face recognition, touch-screen controls on the LCD, and advanced High Definition (HD) video capabilities (all standard on most consumer cameras these days). In short, the GRD concept is not one that lends itself well to the typical consumer-oriented photographic culture.
The GRD is a camera designed for photographers who are looking for a small, easy to carry, camera that can provide complete manual control over the photographic process (easily) while also giving photographers the ability to customize the camera and it’s settings to best meet their needs in the field. To the GRD photographer, the fixed focal length lens (28mm) is not a challenge but an opportunity for interacting with our subjects in a way that longer focal lengths don’t allow for. With a 28mm lens, we must get closer and in doing so, engage with our subjects (whether a person or a thing). Features such as Snap Focus allows us to be more spontaneous and aware of the photographic possibilities before us without having to wait for the camera. The compactness of the camera allows us to carry it everywhere but it is also designed to be ergonomic to the point where it becomes an extension of our hand and our eyes. The GRD does what all cameras should do, it allows us to express ourselves photographically. In a sense, it is an extension of our photographic awareness.
Post Script
You might be wondering if I intend to purchase the new Ricoh GRD IV. The answer is that I already have one on pre-order (placed through SeriousCompacts.com). Given that the I use the GRD III as my primary camera (indeed, as of this writing it is my only camera) and that the new features of the GRD IV are features that I will use on a daily basis in my photography, the cost is worth it to me. If you have been sitting on the fence about the GRD camera and are interested in getting one, you might try purchasing a GRD III (the price on new GRD III cameras has come down significantly and will drop further and used cameras can be found everywhere on-line). The GRD III is still a wonderful camera and I will keep mine as a back-up.
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Paul Giguere is a photographer based in the United States. His current focus is on social documentary photographic projects that show the positive aspects of society and community. He is the host of the podcast Thoughts on Photography (www.thoughtsonphotography.com) and you can also visit his personal web site at: www.paulgiguere.com. -Amin
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